Frómista to Carrión de los Condes | The Days You Can’t Plan

Sept 23rd

The day started a little differently than planned. I was supposed to meet Beth at a local bakery at 7:00 a.m. to start our walk from Frómista to Carrión de los Condes. Instead, at 7:25, I woke up to my phone buzzing and vibrating. I had completely forgotten to set my alarm. My hotel happened to be right next to the train tracks, and somehow the trains must have lulled me to sleep because it was the best night’s sleep I’ve had since arriving in Spain.

I texted Beth, told her to go ahead, and decided I wasn’t going to stress about it. I took my time, showered and went downstairs for breakfast with my hair still wet. The woman who ran the hotel took one look at me and, in very animated Spanish, insisted I go back upstairs and blow-dry my hair because it was chilly outside, so I did .And I’m glad I did, because minutes after finally leaving the hotel, I met Graham and Fiona from the UK

We ended up walking nearly 16 miles together, stopping only twice for bathroom breaks and talking the entire way, they were absolutely hysterical. Fiona, like me, loves stopping in the churches in every little village, so we made our way from church to church and eventually stopped for an Aquarius basically Spain’s version of a bottled electrolyte drink.

I also picked up a few new English expressions along the way. At one point I asked Fiona if she has a tissue because my nose was running. A few minutes later she needed one too and said, “I don’t want to be a Copycat Katie…” I asked her to repeat herself and said it is a very common term in UK, I wrote it my ongoing notes on my phone of things I want to remember .

Fiona & I

Somewhere along those miles, Fiona said something about the Camino that stayed with me. For her, doing the Camino was about reaching this rare intersection where she has good health, time and finances all come together at the same time to have the ability to do this walk. It struck me because that really is what it takes to be here. And none of those things should ever be taken for granted. Fiona then wen to share with me she was the head of a primary school for years , explained a lot about her as at each stop she made sure I had all my belongings before heading out back to walk . She shared while walking with me she retired from that job and then stumbled onto a role as a healthcare consultant at a hospital where she had been taking her mom who had age-related macular degeneration . She loved her role but quit before coming here as he mother had passed recently and she and graham were using the money she received from selling her house to pay for this trip in honor of her mom, it was beautiful , everyone has a reason for being here and I love hearing the inspirations as it is not for the faint of the heart.

Graham & I

About three miles outside Carrión, I asked where they were staying. It turned out we were all staying in a beautiful old monastery that had been converted into a hotel. We laughed when we arrived in town and pulled up Google Maps. I said, “There can’t possibly be more than one monastery hotel in this tiny village.” Turns out there are.Eventually we found the right one, but our rooms weren’t ready, which turned into another one of those unplanned Camino moments that ends up being better than anything you could have organized.

My hotel - Hotel Real Monastero de San Zoilo -

We ran into other pilgrims we had each met at different points along the Way- Christina and Mike from Toronto, and Carmel and Georgia, a mother and daughter from New Zealand. Soon we were all sitting outside in the shade with a beautiful breeze, sharing pastries, potatoes, ham and cheese, and of course our beer of the day to exchange stories of all of our walks and there was lot of laughter .While talking we all said we saw signs walking in for a Pilgrim Concert that evening in town. Our feet were all hurting, so naturally our first thought was: taxi, and as it turns out there are no taxis in Carrion. So we agreed to meet in the lobby and walk the mile and a half back into town together.

While I was waiting in the lobby for all ( was early as I had overslept earlier so did not want to be that person ) , the woman at the front desk told me in Spanish there was something I should see. She buzzed open a huge door behind the reception desk, and I walked through it, down into the old monastery and into a private chapel. I couldn’t believe it to be honest it was vast and beautiful. So, of course, when the others arrived I told them, “We may be late for the concert, but you have to see this.” We all walked back inside together and just stood there taking it in. I keep saying, “This may be one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen,” and somehow another one keeps appearing.

We eventually walked into town for the concert at Santa María del Camino, where the church was filled with familiar faces pilgrims I had seen throughout the day and at different points along the Camino. For about 45 minutes, we listened to organ, flute and voices fill the church, not a normal occurrence for me but I really enjoyed it

The written program explained that the concert was a gift to the pilgrims a way for the people of Carrión to honor those who have been passing through their village on this pilgrimage for centuries. They recognize what it takes time and effort to step away from your life and make the time to walk this road. Afterward, we walked back to the monastery and had one of the nicest dinners I’ve had since arriving in Spain, upstairs in the monastery restaurant with a glass of wine.

And when the day was finally over, I went back to my room, sat quietly for a while, and looked out my window at the monastery tower illuminated against the night sky. The day had started with me oversleeping and missing the person I was supposed to walk with and because of that, I met Graham and Fiona.

I laughed a lot. I met more pilgrims. I discovered a hidden church. I listened to music in a centuries-old church. I shared dinner and wine in a monastery.

Another reminder that some of the best parts of the Camino happen when the plan doesn’t.

Buen Camino